Loulou Mitjavile, from cult winery Tertre Roteboeuf.
Let’s start with the Pomerol Appelation.
Many negociants think of it as this vintage’s winner along with Margaux. Wines are bright, show depth and pretty elegance, all mixed in with an amazing approachability. Quite a few producers are working in biodynamic agriculture (even if not yet certified) and freshness and purity have definitely being invited to this ball.
Tasting at the UGC in Chateau Beauregard was a little disappointing. Only a dozen producers showed up so it made it a little difficult to understand the appellation’s overall quality
Standouts: Eglise Clinet (though huge and unusually closed up), Beauregard and Petit Village
Superstars: Clinet, with very precise, pure fruit, freshness, complexity (notes of dark licorice and Indian spices), la Croix de Gay and le Bon Pasteur.
Top wines: la Conseillante and its Duo, very reminiscent in quality of Palmer and Alter Ego, with Merlot as the fabulous varietal allowed to mature to its full potential. Bravo to Marielle Cazeaux on her first vintage! And Clos l’Eglise, deliciously elegant with silky notes of spices and dark fruit
But, but, but: never got to taste le Gay, Vieux Chateau Certan, l’Evangile, le Pin or Petrus. So, in the end , a very incomplete look at the Pomerol appellation. My spies tell me that VCC is a rock star, this year. We will see
In St Emilion, A trip to the UGC tasting at La Couspaude revealed that the split between producers interested in making pleasant, round wines and those willing to push the envelope a tad, was obvious and was further accentuated with later tastings at other properties.
Standouts: Beausejour Becot, Canon La Gaffeliere, La Dominique, La Tour Figeac
Superstars: Troplong Mondot as a massive wine, Barde Haut as terroir typical (“Let’s go back and make St Emilion wines,” says Patrice Leveque) and Chapelle d’Aysone and Tertre Roteboeuf, both totally hedonistic.
Disappointment: Pavie Macquin. Maybe my palate was off, but the other two wines on the table, ie Berliquet and Larcis Ducasse were both more pleasurable, even as babies.
All 1ers Grands Crus Classes, Pavie, Angelus, Cheval Blanc and Ausone will be reviewed along with left bank first growths later.