Our 2017 Henri Boillot wines have finally arrived. As you might expect, pre-sales have been quite strong, due both to the known quality and value of the products. Of course, the fact that 2017 is another excellent vintage has also boosted sales.
The big news from Burgundy in 2017 was that, ironically, there was NO NEWS! Unlike past vintages plagued with frost, mildew, heat and the resulting tiny harvests — 2017 was bountiful, with optimal growing conditions throughout the season.
In fact, 2017 was particularly good for white wines, with most professionals rating it at least as good as 2016 and possibly equal to the phenomenal 2014. Again, the benign growing season, with a combination of warm days and cool nights, allowed for the fruit to slowly ripen in a perfect way. After all, what is essential with whites is to preserve freshness and crisp acidity. In the end, the vintage delivered.
What we appreciate most about Henri and Guillaume’s wines is that they combine expression of terroir and a sense of the natural. There is no stirring of lees here, so no danger of premature oxidation. The predominant aromas from the Boillot whites are of peaches and white flowers. From start to finish, you feel the wines achieve that optimal blend of aromas and flavors.
On another note, we’re pleased to highlight the fact that Henri Boillot wines have not seen a price increase in quite a few years, thus making it one of the few great buys in Burgundy. For example, the Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay is a declassified combination of Auxey-Duresses, Saint-Romain and Meursault vineyards. In our opinion it’s one of the best white wine values out there — beautiful minerality and freshness for under $24 — truly remarkable!
Another wine from the Boillot stable is the Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère. Within the Les Perrières appellation, Henri owns this single vineyard. (Something quite rare in Burgundy, where most vineyards are shared by multiple owners.) Mouchère is legendary and the only reason it is not a Grand Cru is because the law does not allow Grands Crus in Puligny-Montrachet. But it is Grand Cru in all but name. Incredible quality and raciness in this over-the-top wine. And all for $100, when Batard, Chevalier and Montrachet cost from $250-$750. Again, remarkable value!
As mentioned previously, the exceptionally large harvest in 2017 was a tremendous relief for Burgundy growers who had suffered with small production for several years in a row. Unfortunately, some houses didn’t employ a rigorous selection in their eagerness to replace dwindling cellars and to capitalize on an ever-growing demand for Burgundy. Consequently, the 2017 vintage as a whole has received mixed reviews.
Rest assured, Henri and Guillaume Boillot are obsessed with quality. Their interest, always, is to make better wine, not to simply add barrels to their inventory. Their expertise and dedication show, again, with this vintage. The Boillot Volnay 1er Cru Les Chevrets, located near the Meursault appellation, with vines 55-years and older, boasts of silky tannins and a refined elegance. Chevrets is a Pinot to drink with a leisurely lunch. Sit, swirl and enjoy the blend of perfume and silk in your glass.
The Volnay Fremiets, another 1er Cru, this one located just below the famed Clos des Ducs, is more brilliant and intense, showing a little spice. The Caillerets, in integral vinification and 100% new oak barrels, offers prominent but smooth tannins with great length and just a bit of sweet finish. This is serious Volnay — and also one that will please Oregon Pinot lovers, because it combines intensity and depth with that extra Burgundy quality.
The Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens comes from slightly younger vines (average age 39 years) and is intense in color. Although quite concentrated, this wine still offers delicate aromas on the palate. A consummate tour de force!
One of our favorites is the Clos Vougeot. This wine is bold upfront and projects a nose of ripe berries with great volume and roundness. The finish, however, is soft, with ultra silky tannins. Well done Guillaume!
Vintage after vintage, the Boillot wines are nothing short of extraordinary. In that regard, 2017 is not particularly news worthy, nothing different — just spectacular once again!
Here are the few selections we can still offer:
2017 BOILLOT WHITES
Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay. $23.99. Good availability
Meursault Village. $45.99. Good availability
Meursault Charmes 1er Cru. $69.99. 36 bottles.
Meursault Poruzots 1er Cru. $76.99. 36 bottles.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières. $99.99. 20 bottles.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes. $99.99. 14 bottles.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets. $99.99. only 4 bottles left.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles. $95.99. 48 bottles.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère. $99.99. 84 bottles.
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. $159.99. 36 bottles.
2017 BOILLOT REDS
Volnay Village. $48.99. 24 bottles.
Volnay 1er Cru Les Chevrets. $76.99. 60 bottles.
Volnay 1er Cru Les Fremiets. $76.99. 48 bottles.
Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets. $89.99. 60 bottles.
Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens. $89.99. 24 bottles.
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru. $139.99. 24 bottles.
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru. $234.99. only 13 bottles left.